Sapp Coffee Shop: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Thai Town's boat-noodle wars show no signs of abating, and there may be no end of Thai cafés in the neighborhood claiming to serve the best, the most authentic version, but the homely virtues of Sapp become more apparent by the year. Sapp's boat noodles are magnificent: murky, organ-rich beef soup amplified with shrieking chile heat, thickened with blood, the tartness of lime juice locked in muscular poise with the brawny muskiness of the broth. Sapp may be the best lunchroom in Hollywood, crowded at noon not with revelers but with people who have come to Thai Town to shop and eat the boat noodles, the grilled chicken and the bright-green "jade" noodles tossed with bits of Chinese barbecue. 5183 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd. (323) 665-1035. 7 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Closed Wed. No alcohol. Lot parking. Cash only. Thai.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

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Anne Fishbein's Photos
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