Rocio's Moles de los Dioses: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

There are so many things about Rocio's Moles de los Dioses that make it special — yes, there are the moles, made by legendary mole queen Rocio Camacho, but there is also so, so much more. You might not expect, for instance, an amuse-bouche at a Mexican restaurant in a strip mall in Sun Valley, but you'll get one: a small taste of spicy shrimp broth topped with a fresh tortilla, brightness grounded with masa. You might not expect passion fruit to complete the spicy guacamole, but it does. The empanadas, which are colored the most vibrant green, thanks to the addition to the masa of nopales (cactus), are flaky, delicate and rich. But let's face it, you came for the moles, and they don't disappoint. From musky and rich (de los dioses, oaxaqueno) to light and fruity (tequila and lemon), there's a mole for every taste and every mood. The exceptional food comes with gracious, almost formal service as well — just another extra you may not have expected but will be extra grateful for in the end. 8255 Sunland Blvd., Sun Valley; (818) 252-6415, moleofthegods.com. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. & 5-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sun., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mole dishes $15-$19. Beer and wine.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send:

Newsletters

All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >