Ricky's Fish Tacos: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

Many people attribute the magic of Ricky's Fish Tacos to the gloriously makeshift nature of the enterprise — a thrown-together fry station, cash register and collection of tables and chairs in a side yard/parking lot on a nondescript stretch of Virgil Avenue near the Sunset/Hollywood Boulevard split in Silver Lake. But while Ricky's is awfully endearing, thanks to its odd location and hours (three or four days a week, lunch only, weather permitting), and Ricky himself is a smiling charmer of a host, the real treasure here are the tacos. There's Ensenada-style fish and shrimp and sometimes even lobster tacos, but it's the fish that draws you here, its crunchy golden batter giving way to soft white flesh. Super-fresh shredded cabbage and pico de gallo are added for crunch and a little sweetness and acid — it's up to you to add salsa and crema to your satisfaction. So yes, be smug and proud that you live in a city where tacos pop up in the most random locations, but be especially happy that these tacos pop up at all. 1400 N. Virgil Ave., E. Hlywd.; (323) 906-7290. Lunch, most Thurs.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m. (check twitter.com/RickysFishTacos for info). Fish tacos $2.75. No alcohol.


Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography


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