Restaurant Reviews

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Kiyokawa: So Sorry, So Good Kiyokawa: So Sorry, So Good
Satoshi Kiyokawa may be the best unknown sushi chef in L.A.
, November 13, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's Kiyokawa photo gallery.Kiyokawa is a small sushi bar on the southern edge of Beverly Hills, a couple of... More >>
Indo Café: Out of  the Ashes Indo Café: Out of the Ashes
... and into the urap
, November 05, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "Out Of The Ashes And Into The Urap At Indo Cafe" photo gallery. Have you ever tasted Indonesian urap?... More >>
Billy’s: A Deli Grows in Glendale Billy’s: A Deli Grows in Glendale
Or maybe it was there all along
, October 29, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "A Deli Grows In Glendale, Or Maybe Billy's Was There All Along" photo gallery. When you are cruising the... More >>
What Is a Burrito? A Primer What Is a Burrito? A Primer
It's a Chicano thing — you gotta understand
, October 22, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "What is a Burrito?" photo gallery. I have never been able to change a Taiwanese woman’s mind when I tilt... More >>
Consider the Oysterette Consider the Oysterette
Bivalvular (and other) pleasures on Ocean Avenue
, October 15, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "Pleasures at Blue Point Oysterette" photo gallery. When people ask about my favorite restaurant in New York,... More >>
JTYH Restaurant: Heavy Noodling II JTYH Restaurant: Heavy Noodling II
Knife-shaved pasta, the next generation
, October 08, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "Heavy Noodling" photo gallery. Have you encountered Shanxi knife-cut noodles? Because if you haven’t, you... More >>
Cube: Cornucopia Squared Cube: Cornucopia Squared
Where does the shopping end and the eating begin — or vice versa?
, September 24, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "Cornucopia Squared at Cube" photo gallery.Somebody at Cube is good at shopping. I thought I’d get that out... More >>
You’re a Pig! You’re a Pig!
If you want to be, at Koreatown’s Don Dae Gam
, September 17, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "You're a Pig!" photo gallery. Have you ever had too much pork belly — not a slab of bacon or a braised... More >>
Street Cred Street Cred
At her new Hollywood restaurant, Susan Feniger puts the cart before the hors d’oeuvre
, September 10, 2009
View more photos in the "Street Cred" slideshow.  When the first Bush was in the White House, gas was cheap and many of us hadn’t yet figured out... More >>
Hail the Conquering Chicken Hail the Conquering Chicken
Hainan (Chicken) Rice in Alhambra
, September 03, 2009
View more photos in the "Dong Nguyen and Savoy: Hail the Conquering Chicken" slideshow. I am willing to go toe to toe on the subject of what... More >>
Squid Ink (Shore Leave) Squid Ink (Shore Leave)
Notes on Eating and Drinking in L.A.
, August 20, 2009
The Happy Rise of Cookbook Sales: Michael Ruhlman’s Ratio Hits Bestseller ListIt’s not only Julia Child’s books that have been topping the... More >>
Of Cumin Bondage: Korean at Feng Mao Of Cumin Bondage: Korean at Feng Mao
The improbable, cross-cultural carom
, August 13, 2009
View more photos in the "Of Cumin Bondage" slideshow. Koreatown may be best known as a land of fresh tofu, bibimbap and flowing soju, but the... More >>
To Beef or Not to Beef: Officina della Bistecca To Beef or Not to Beef: Officina della Bistecca
In Chianti, Italy, not your average neighborhood butcher
, August 06, 2009
View more photos in the "To Beef or Not to Beef" slideshow. Any food person who has passed through Chianti in the past decade has run across... More >>
Food Fight: the Foundry VS. Father's Office Food Fight: the Foundry VS. Father's Office
Chefs Eric Greenspan and Sang Yoon Engage in a Battle of the Burgers
, July 30, 2009
Early Wednesday morning, 2 a.m. to be precise, Eric Greenspan issued a hamburger challenge to L.A.’s reigning hamburger king, Sang Yoon of... More >>
Ludo Bites at Breadbar Ludo Bites at Breadbar
Ludovic Lefebvre Brings Post-Molecular Gastronomy to Third Street
, July 23, 2009
View more photos in the Ludo Bites slideshow.  Picture a slice of Spanish chorizo, then imagine that flavor transferred intact to a cool, cream... More >>
FLORIA DEL RIO WILL GET YOUR GOAT FLORIA DEL RIO WILL GET YOUR GOAT
The bleat goes on with hot birria and cold Cerveza and a mariachi serenade
, July 16, 2009
View more photos in the "Eat Some Goat!" slideshow. On hot Sunday mornings when the asphalt turns to syrup and the cats begin to pant, the pace... More >>
Silk Purse: AT CHURCH & STATE, CHEF WALTER MANZKE TRANSFORMS A PIG’S EAR Silk Purse: AT CHURCH & STATE, CHEF WALTER MANZKE TRANSFORMS A PIG’S EAR
, July 09, 2009
View more photos in the Church & State slideshow. Pig’s ears are not hard to find in Los Angeles. Shanghai-style restaurants tend to have them,... More >>
Snook Attack: La Chente Snook Attack: La Chente
Beware the dangerous, cult-forming Pescado Zarandeado
, July 02, 2009
Have you ever encountered pescado Zarandeado? Beacause it is as intimidating as an entrée can get, a vast, smoking creature split open at the... More >>
Be Happy.  Be Bottega Louie. Be Happy. Be Bottega Louie.
Downtown L.A.'s grand new emporium has a little something for everyone
, June 25, 2009
View more photos in the Bottega Louie slideshow.Bottega Louie is the loudest place in Los Angeles on a summer evening, happy racket bouncing off... More >>
The Green Village Preservation Society The Green Village Preservation Society
Open to new members in Rowland Heights
, June 18, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's slideshow. Leeks with eel jam? Duck soup? Yangzhou crabmeat spring roll casserole? Braised pork knuckle with... More >>
Nickel Diner: Heart Attack and Main Nickel Diner: Heart Attack and Main
Not your father's diner but it still might kill you.
, June 11, 2009
View more photos in the "Nickel Diner: Not Your Father's Diner But It Still Might Kill You" slideshow. The motto of the Nickel Diner is probably... More >>
At El Monte’s Birrieria La Barca Jalisco, spicy transcendence comes in a molcajete At El Monte’s Birrieria La Barca Jalisco, spicy transcendence comes in a molcajete
Mortar fire
, June 04, 2009
View more photos in the "La Barca: Maddening Charred Meat, Garlic and Hot Tortillas" slideshow. To get to Birrieria La Barca Jalisco, you pull... More >>
Mo-Chica: The Best Peruvian Ceviche Might Be in a Warehouse South of Downtown Mo-Chica: The Best Peruvian Ceviche Might Be in a Warehouse South of Downtown
Raw deal
, May 28, 2009
View more photos in the "Mo-Chica: Best Peruvian Ceviche - Soft, Tart, Brutally Spicy" slideshow. The first time I visited Lima, not long after... More >>
Craft of a Top Chef: Lost and Found at Tom Colicchio's L.A. Spinoff Show Craftbar Craft of a Top Chef: Lost and Found at Tom Colicchio's L.A. Spinoff Show Craftbar
The Craft experience distilled into a tasting menu of small plates
, May 21, 2009
View more photos in Anne Fishbein's "Craftbar: Maximum-à-la-Carte" slideshow. One of the most pleasant meals I’ve eaten this year was a spring... More >>
Golden State's Beer Warriors, All Hopped Up Golden State's Beer Warriors, All Hopped Up
The ale-intensive gastropub serves some of L.A.'s best burgers and a mind-blowing beer float with brown-bread ice cream from Tai Kim's cult gelateria Scoops
, May 14, 2009
View more photos in the "Golden State's Beer Warriors: Burgers and Beer Floats" slideshow.  Might your idea of dessert be expansive enough to... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Pulling Off the White Tablecloth Pulling Off the White Tablecloth
By Laurie Winer

When the economy crashed in late 2008, many of us had this hilarious notion that a new age might usher in some way of living that was deeper and richer,… More >>

Finally: L.A. Gets Mexican Food Worthy of Mexico's Grand Tradition Finally: L.A. Gets Mexican Food Worthy of Mexico's Grand Tradition
By Lorenza Munoz

See more of Anne Fishbein's Seta photography. When chefs Jaime Martin del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu opened La Casita Mexicana in 1998, they were acting out of desperation. After immigrating to… More >>

The <i>Original</i> Food Trucks The Original Food Trucks
By Patricia Nazario

See more of Anne Fishbein's food truck photography. It's not the kind of question you ask in public, but: Would you eat from a plain white catering truck? While perusing the menu… More >>

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