Restaurant Reviews

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Raw Power
Regular-guy sushi in Little Tokyo
, December 24, 1998
Photo by Anne FishbeinThere are, of course, many sushi experiences available in the greater Los Angeles area: sushi served by reggae singers and... More >>
Dear Diary
A week in the life of food
, December 17, 1998
Photo by Anne FishbeinHere’s what I did last week. SUNDAY: Everybody but me, it appears, adores the crisp-skinned roast chicken at the Cuba... More >>
Bright Lights, Pig City
Chinese barbecue in Alhambra
, November 19, 1998
The vast Cantonese banquet halls process thousands of customers a day. Gleaming Hong Kong-style cafés are as numerous as the red beans in a Chinese ... More >>
Frank Discussion
A natural history of the chilidog
, November 12, 1998
`If you grew up eating hot dogs in the swinging San Fernando Valley '70s, your family probably had allegiances to the Hot Dog Show or Flooky's or... More >>
North of Old Town
South of the border
, November 05, 1998
Old Town Pasadena may be the most gentrified district in America, a sort of mega-mall sprinkled like fairy dust through hundred-year-old office... More >>
Hot Stuff
Incendiary Sichuan in Pasadena
, October 29, 1998
The hottest Thai curry in Los Angeles? It's hard to say. The fieriest Mexican dish? I couldn't tell you, although a dish of grilled shrimp with... More >>
Man Bites Prawn
A Koreatown seafood adventure
, October 15, 1998
The first cold night of fall, I went to the Living Fish Center, a small, superbly named Koreatown restaurant in whose window a brilliant neon... More >>
Hawaiian Aye
Bruddah's island soul
, September 10, 1998
If you're looking for the latest combination of diced papaya and unpronounceable Big Island fish, you might visit the Maui Beach Cafe. If you... More >>
Yemenite Delight
, September 03, 1998
As an agricultural center, Yemen produced the world's first coffee. As a center of music, it produced Ofra Haza, once known as the Yemenite... More >>
Lotus Eaters
Indian food for a post-Beck Silver Lake
, August 20, 1998
Indian cooking is, of course, some of the most varied and delightful on earth, the repository of a hundred spices, a thousand marvels and 10,000... More >>
Gruel World
Chinese porridge in Rosemead
, August 06, 1998
Dim sum can be grand. Northern breakfast breads are delicious. But congee - porridge - may be as close as there is to a universal Chinese... More >>
Trapper's Delight
Big meat in the north woods of San Gabriel
, July 30, 1998
If you grew up in West Los Angeles, you probably have primal yearnings for Lawry's roast beef that you don't fully understand. If like me you... More >>
Fish Out of Water
Seafood on the San Pedro waterfront
, July 23, 1998
The San Pedro Fish Market and Restaurant may be the most raucous place in Los Angeles on a Saturday afternoon - a crumbling wharf in the Ports O'... More >>
Ping-Pong Balls and Thai Tacos
A different kind of dessert in Hollywood
, July 09, 1998
Everybody likes mint-leaf chicken. In some parts of town, pad Thai noodles are more popular than hot dogs. But to people not actually raised in... More >>
Soft-Shoe Sushi
Tap with your tuna in Studio City
, July 02, 1998
Sushi on Tap is a stylish sushi bar in a Studio City mini-mall, a tap-dance-themed place with bright posters on the walls, tap documentaries... More >>
A Perfect Day for Banana Pizza
Brazilian food - and soccer - in Culver City
, June 25, 1998
The Brazilian restaurant Zabumba is as soccer-mad as any three British pubs, with a welter of video screens tuned to the games, World Cup... More >>
Sticking It Where The Sun Shines
Santa Monica's gift to the world
, June 18, 1998
New York has pushcart dogs and the garlic knobelwurst at Katz's deli. Chicago has Vienna franks. Rochester has its white-hots, Cincinnati its... More >>
A Round of Sushi
Raw fish with a golf theme
, May 14, 1998
Behold Sushi Bar Golf, at the historic intersection of Third and Vermont, a Japanese restaurant at the heart of a neighborhood that can't decide... More >>
Old-School Thais
A Hollywood restaurant with roots on Vermont
, May 07, 1998
Vim must have been one of the first dozen Thai restaurants in Los Angeles, a bright, fragrant storefront on a strip of South Vermont that... More >>
White Glove Hamburgers
A San Marino patio experience
, April 30, 1998
Julienne may be the last restaurant of its type in Los Angeles County, a patio café in the heart of San Marino’s small downtown that rolls the... More >>
Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam. . .
Hawaiian musubi in Monterey Park
, April 16, 1998
There is sushi. And then there is Spam musubi. Spam musubi is a brick of vinegared sushi rice, the size of a chalkboard eraser but with 20... More >>
Griddle Me This
Japanese pizza in Torrance
, April 02, 1998
Japan, of course, is home to the most refined food culture in the world, to fish fried so delicately that it appears less greasy than it did... More >>
Loaves and Fishes
Creole food on the Third Street Promenade
, March 26, 1998
For most of the last decade, Gagnier's of New Orleans was a gleaming white-tablecloth creole restaurant in the Baldwin Hills/Crenshaw Plaza... More >>
Amphibious Assault
Thai frog legs in Hollywood
, March 19, 1998
If you have taken your American Express card out for a walk lately, you have probably noticed that Los Angeles has become a city of supper clubs,... More >>
She Conchs to Stupor
Honduran seafood chowder on West Adams
, March 12, 1998
Coconut-enriched seafood chowders, from new-wave Florida soups to the fiery mocquecas of northern Brazil, are a staple of the warm-water... More >>
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