Pollos a la Brasa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011
This Peruvian chicken shack is the kind of place you may have thought was zoned out of existence, a kind of glassed-in shed set down on a traffic island and nearly hidden by high drifts of cordwood. The first thing you notice about it is the wood smoke, great billowing draughts that drift down Western Avenue and almost magically perfume the chickens, flavored with garlic and black oregano and roasted on a vast, flame-licked apparatus. There is a limited menu here, basically salad and fries and an indifferent preparation of the grilled beef-heart dish anticuchos, but the chicken is enough: well-garlicked, slightly spicy, caramelized and crisp, clearly the marriage of a chicken and a bunch of logs. 764 S. Western Ave., Koreatown. (213) 387-1531. Mon., Wed.-Fri., 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 10:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. No alcohol. Street parking. MC, V. Peruvian.
99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:
Church & State
Din Tai Fung
El Huarache Azteca
Euro Pane Bakery
Fab Hot Dogs
Good Girl Dinette
La Casita Mexicana
Lazy Ox Canteen
Meals by Genet
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
Night + Market
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Pollos a la Brasa
Sapp Coffee Shop
Son of a Gun
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Waterloo & City
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