Point West: Mark Peels new Culver City digs
Some people eat out of vending machines at work. Some offices enjoy occasional visits from the Nom Nom Truck. But the information gurus who labor in Culver City’s Media District, in the old warehouses converted to vast, intricately architected complexes that look as if they were inspired by the pixel grids in Tron, are within striking distance of the fried-egg sandwiches and shaved-fennel salads of The Point, an office-building canteen recently taken over by Campanile’s Mark Peel.
Does the Point, tucked into one of Eric Owen Moss’ earliest Culver City buildings, have its charms? Frankly, not many of them. You will wait in line, you will pump your own coffee, and you will gaze out onto the postapocalyptic rubble of MTA construction, for a rail line that should be up and running just in time to celebrate Sarah Palin’s second term. You may need that rail line to get to the restaurant from the place where you will eventually park, although there is a validated lot off Hayden if you can find it.
But the chicken under a brick? It’s a close facsimile of the Campanile version at about half the cost, buried under garlic cloves and nestled into a bed of buttery potato puree, and the pressed sandwich of grilled Gruyère with mustard will be familiar to anybody who has ever attended Campanile’s grilled-cheese night. I liked the salad of pears, sliced manchego cheese and jamon Serrano. There are BLTs with avocado and pressed patty melts, French onion soup and big spinach salads, all neatly packed to go in recyclable plastic containers, and killer apple tarts for dessert. And if you order online, the Point even delivers.
THE POINT: 8522 National Blvd., Ste. 100, Culver City. (310) 836-8400, thepoint-la.com.
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