WithNational Ice Cream Month
about to vanish into our thighs (and because David Lebovitz'sThe Perfect Scoop
is taunting us from our bookshelves) let's pause for a moment and think about the important role that ice cream plays in...
Nevermind. Let's go make some ice cream, with a little literary inspiration. Pistachios and rosewater go together like salt and chocolate. At once floral, nutty, and milky-sweet, this ice cream adaptation of a fictional childhood memory is a fitting way to close out a month of contrived ice cream homage. Because really, every month is ice cream month.
Pistachio-Rosewater Ice Cream
Makes: about 1 1/2 pints
1 cup unsalted, shelled pistachios
2 cups evaporated milk
¾ cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract (not imitation)
5 egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
2 ½ teaspoons rosewater
1. Crush the pistachios in a mortar and pestle or chop in a food processor.
2. Mix the milk, sugar, and vanilla in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan; add the pistachios and bring to a light boil. Allow to simmer for 15-20 minutes, then remove from the heat.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and slowly mix in about a cup of the hot milk-pistachio liquid to temper the eggs. Add the egg yolk-milk mixture to the saucepan, whisking as you pour it in. Cook the custard over low heat, stirring constantly until the custard clings to the back of a spoon and your finger can run a path through it without it running. Meanwhile, set a bowl large enough for the custard over an ice bath.
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4. Remove the custard from the heat and immediately strain into the bowl set over the ice bath. Thoroughly chill the custard, placing a piece of plastic over the custard when it's cooled slightly so that a skin doesn't form.
5. When the custard has chilled, mix in the heavy cream and rosewater and prepare according to your ice cream maker's instructions.
Side note: Don't discard the milk-cooked pistachios - they are soft and chewy, sweet and rich. Use them to top your ice cream, cupcakes, cereal, or eat them straight with a spoon. You could probably even use them to make bahklava.
Felicia Friesema also writes More, please.