Oinkster: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

Oinkster: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

In the lunch line at Oinkster, men and women with copious neck and hand tattoos mingle with guys in suits. Across two tables, a biker, wearing a T-shirt printed with that infamous Johnny Cash middle-finger photo, talks to two L.A. County sheriffs as they chow down on burgers, while teenagers on a date giggle in the corner. They're all here at Andre Guerrero's refurbished midcentury burger stand in Eagle Rock for a cheffy (though not too cheffy) take on fast food: smoky, pulled-pork barbecue sandwiches with a not-too-sweet, vinegary, Carolina-style sauce; house-smoked pastrami that is just fatty enough; rotisserie chicken; burgers; purple ube milkshakes that showcase the chef's Filipino heritage. There's a decent selection of beers on tap and sides like Belgian french fries and homey black beans that take this spot more than a few notches above your regular burger stand — and for only a couple dollars more. That, plus the convivial, diverse crowd make the Oinkster stand out, even in a city full of fantastic burger shacks. 2005 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock; (323) 255-OINK, theoinkster.com. Mon.-Thurs. & Sun., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sandwiches $5.25-$9.50. Beer and wine.


Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography


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