Chef Suzanne Goin and business partner Caroline Styne (Lucques, A.O.C., Tavern) have opened their third iteration of the Larder -- others are in West Hollywood and Brentwood -- at the intersection of Burton Way, San Vicente and La Cienega, a seemingly awkward location that surprises you with excellent parking (validated by day in an underground lot; valet at night). There's patio seating, a marble-topped bar and banquettes all around. By day, you approach the counter and order -- by night, there's table service.
Says Styne, "We just want it to be a place that can do a lot of things for a lot of people, throughout the day. We're up against such a residential neighborhood ... it fills a need for them. They can easily walk and get breakfast, lunch and dinner. We'll hopefully do Thanksgiving dinners to pick up, and we're doing a Father's Day barbecue to pick up and take home."
For picnics, they've got a handful of fat sandwiches (turkey & cranberry, brisket & horseradish cream) and half a dozen ficelles -- thin French baguettes piled with soppressata, burrata and radishes. Suzanne Goin can bake, and the Larder is just one more opportunity to gorge on monkey bread, homemade nutter-butters and salted caramel brownies.
But don't give the savory short shrift: A vegan "Cobb" salad is bright with acidity and makes the most of California produce, a veritable farmers market of baby lettuces, sweet potato, tomatoes, avocado, beets and chickpeas. The bucatini with lamb meatballs put a Moroccan spin on an Italian favorite: Feta and black olives are swirled with the fat, chewy strands of pasta. The turkey burger will make you forget about red meat.
And there are usually about a dozen options in the "vegetables and grains" category, ranging from quinoa and black bean salad to curried cauliflower -- you can make a meal out of three of them for $14.
If you like this story, consider signing up for our email newsletters.
SHOW ME HOW
You have successfully signed up for your selected newsletter(s) - please keep an eye on your mailbox, we're movin' in!
And should you be planning an international getaway for Christmas, get excited. A Larder outpost at LAX will be opening sometime around September. According to Styne, "It will definitely have a lot of self-service elements, grab-and-go sandwiches, prepacked picnic boxes that you can just grab and take on the plane with you."
Beats airplane peanuts any day.
Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook.