Night + Market: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

You probably wouldn't expect to find L.A.'s best Thai street-food specialist on the Sunset Strip, and you probably wouldn't expect it to be affiliated with the relatively mainstream Talesai, to which it is attached like a leering evil twin. But Kris Yenbamroong, son of Talesai's owners, seems to be as inspired by the informality of pop-ups as he was by the street food of his Bangkok adolescence, the nam priks, the larb and the pork belly glazed with fish sauce. And you will find nearly every part of the pig here, portioned out into the Thai equivalent of tapas, which is to say a unit of consumption carefully calibrated to the refreshment inherent in a single bottle of Singha: Isaan-style grilled pork collar; house-fermented sour sausage; pig's ear fried with garlic and chile; and a huge pork hock braised in soy. The fried pig tails are even tastier than the garlicky spareribs, which is saying a lot. Dessert is likely to be an ice cream sandwich — not the oblongs you get from the Good Humor truck but coconut-milk ice cream stuffed between thick hunks of charcoal-grilled toast. 9041 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd. (310) 275-9724, nightmarketla.com. Nightly, 6-11 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Thai.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send:

Newsletters

All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >