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Night + Market: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

You probably wouldn't expect to find L.A.'s best Thai street-food specialist on the Sunset Strip, and you probably wouldn't expect it to be affiliated with the relatively mainstream Talesai, to which it is attached like a leering evil twin. But Kris Yenbamroong, son of Talesai's owners, seems to be as inspired by the informality of pop-ups as he was by the street food of his Bangkok adolescence, the nam priks, the larb and the pork belly glazed with fish sauce. And you will find nearly every part of the pig here, portioned out into the Thai equivalent of tapas, which is to say a unit of consumption carefully calibrated to the refreshment inherent in a single bottle of Singha: Isaan-style grilled pork collar; house-fermented sour sausage; pig's ear fried with garlic and chile; and a huge pork hock braised in soy. The fried pig tails are even tastier than the garlicky spareribs, which is saying a lot. Dessert is likely to be an ice cream sandwich — not the oblongs you get from the Good Humor truck but coconut-milk ice cream stuffed between thick hunks of charcoal-grilled toast. 9041 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd. (310) 275-9724, nightmarketla.com. Nightly, 6-11 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Thai.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

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Night + Market

9041 Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90069

310-275-9724

thenightmarket.blogspot.com


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