Naomi Shim Revamps Commissary's Pastries
Since opening in April 2010, Coffee Commissary has consistently brewed top-notch beans from the likes of Coava, Sightglass and Victrola, earning a spot among our Top 10 Coffee Shops in L.A. The minimalist Fairfax Avenue cafe is finally getting a pastry program to match thanks to Naomi Shim, who previously oversaw the pastries at Salt's Cure.
While owner Tyler King helps ready the coffee bar at business partner Dave Dickerson's soon-to-open West Hollywood outpost of Kitchen 24, Shim has been gradually revamping Commissary's baked goods lineup since mid-October. Most items that were previously delivered by outside vendors will now be made in-house. Shim has started off with sweets, but she'll expand to include more savory items and may even do the croissants in-house.
According to King, she's still exploring the possibilities of Commissary's admittedly smallish kitchen. We're already impressed -- by pastries made with farmers' market persimmons, by the housemade strawberry Pop Tart and especially by the incredible pear turnover. A triangle of flaky dough laden with a vibrant, lightly sweetened pear compote, it wasn't even close to perfect, we were told. By Shim's high standards, it was "underdone." By our standards, it was exceptional.
Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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