Mozza: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011
Mozza has been sprawling so relentlessly that some of us have taken to calling it the Mozza Industrial Complex. And every time you poke your head into Nancy Silverton's outpost of the Batali-Bastianich empire, there is new ground to surveil — this year, it has been the magnificent whole-hog dinners Chad Colby prepares Saturday nights at the Scuola di Pizza. If it's Monday, do you wait in line for the pizzeria, or do you get takeout from Mozza2Go, knowing that it's the only day they bake focaccia? In the Osteria, will it be stuzzichini and triumphantly bitter cocktails at the cocktail bar, milky snacks from Silverton at the Mozzarella Bar, or a table way in the back, so remote you half-expect St. Bernards to arrive with kegs of Barolo around their necks?
Matt Molina's handmade pastas and roasted guinea fowl are the stars of the Osteria. Next door at the wonderful but oversubscribed Pizzeria Mozza, Silverton has more or less reinvented the very idea of pizza, airy and burnt and risen around the rim, thin and crisp in the center, neither bready in the traditional Neapolitan manner nor as wispy as you find it in Rome. (Standard disclaimer: Silverton is a family friend. A family friend who happens to make breathtakingly good pizza.) In addition to a full array of Pizzeria Mozza salads, antipasti, lasagne and panini, Mozza2Go offers a few things not available in the restaurant proper, including a porchetta sandwich that practically explodes with fennel pollen and a flat, round, hot panino stuffed with greens and custom-made stracciatella cheese that is the closest thing you'll find around here to the legendary torta al testo of Umbria. Pizzeria: 641 N. Highland Ave. (323) 297-0101, pizzeriamozza.com. Daily, noon-mid. Beer and wine. Osteria: 6602 Melrose Ave. (323) 297-0100, osteriamozza.com. Mon.-Fri., 5:30-11 p.m.; Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 5-10 p.m. Full bar. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave. (323) 297-0100, mozza2go.com. Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., noon-10 p.m. Valet and street parking All major CC. Modern Italian/Pizzeria.
99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:
Church & State
Din Tai Fung
El Huarache Azteca
Euro Pane Bakery
Fab Hot Dogs
Good Girl Dinette
La Casita Mexicana
Lazy Ox Canteen
Meals by Genet
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
Night + Market
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Pollos a la Brasa
Sapp Coffee Shop
Son of a Gun
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Waterloo & City
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