Melisse: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011
When people start talking about the death of fine dining in Los Angeles, by which they mean the lack of caviar, pheasant consommé and truffle-stuffed chicken for two, the exception that is often noted, and the place where Westsiders come to celebrate anniversaries divisible by five, is Josiah Citrin's luxurious dining room. And its public enjoys the Christofle silver, velvet purse stools and airy sauces inflected with fresh black truffle; Iberico pork; Scottish wood pigeon in sauce Perigourdine. The prices, $115 for a minimal four-course menu, are high. (About half the dishes demand supplements.) But Citrin wears Mélisse like a bespoke suit: It fits him. His two Michelin stars were honestly earned. And his cuisine, which uses farmers market produce and modern kitchen techniques without calling attention to itself, tends to be elegant, understated, real. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 395-0881, melisse.com. Dinner, Tues.-Thurs., 6-9:30 p.m.; Fri., 6-10 p.m.; Sat., 5:45-10 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. All major CC. French.
99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:
Church & State
Din Tai Fung
El Huarache Azteca
Euro Pane Bakery
Fab Hot Dogs
Good Girl Dinette
La Casita Mexicana
Lazy Ox Canteen
Meals by Genet
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
Night + Market
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Pollos a la Brasa
Sapp Coffee Shop
Son of a Gun
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Waterloo & City
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