Meals by Genet: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Meals by Genet: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

Chef-owner Genet Agonafer's 13-year-old Meals by Genet, in the tiny Little Ethiopia neighborhood of the Fairfax District, is less a study in contradictions than it is an improbable oasis. You'll walk in from the bustle of the thrift shops and tiny markets that line the street to low candlelight, a checkerboard of white tablecloths in the small dining room, white napkins in wineglasses like small bouquets of bird of paradise. When your dinner arrives, it will be on a huge platter that looks oddly like a flattened sombrero covered with injera, with mounds of perfectly seasoned, stewed vegetables and lentils, chickpeas and split peas surrounding the centerpiece of a remarkable dorowat that colors the flatbread underneath it the deep earthy red of the berbere-spiced sauce. Decline the offer of utensils and instead ask for as much of the spongey injera as it takes to scoop up your remarkable meal. Stop to thank the chef through the open window into the kitchen, which is as bustling as the street outside. Tell her that you hope that she cooks for another 13 years. 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., Fairfax District; (323) 938-9304, mealsbygenet.com. Wed.-Sun., 5:30-10 p.m. Entrees $14-$21. Beer and wine.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

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