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Meals by Genet: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

Meals by Genet: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Chef-owner Genet Agonafer's 13-year-old Meals by Genet, in the tiny Little Ethiopia neighborhood of the Fairfax District, is less a study in contradictions than it is an improbable oasis. You'll walk in from the bustle of the thrift shops and tiny markets that line the street to low candlelight, a checkerboard of white tablecloths in the small dining room, white napkins in wineglasses like small bouquets of bird of paradise. When your dinner arrives, it will be on a huge platter that looks oddly like a flattened sombrero covered with injera, with mounds of perfectly seasoned, stewed vegetables and lentils, chickpeas and split peas surrounding the centerpiece of a remarkable dorowat that colors the flatbread underneath it the deep earthy red of the berbere-spiced sauce. Decline the offer of utensils and instead ask for as much of the spongey injera as it takes to scoop up your remarkable meal. Stop to thank the chef through the open window into the kitchen, which is as bustling as the street outside. Tell her that you hope that she cooks for another 13 years. 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., Fairfax District; (323) 938-9304, mealsbygenet.com. Wed.-Sun., 5:30-10 p.m. Entrees $14-$21. Beer and wine.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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Meals by Genet
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1053 S. Fairfax Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90019

323-938-9304

www.mealsbygenet.com