Meals by Genet: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Among all the kitsch and incense of Fairfax Avenue's Little Ethiopia, Meals by Genet stands out as an Ethiopian bistro, which is to say a homey, soft-lit dining room that looks at least as French as it does African. The menu is short: crisp-skinned fried trout, half a dozen stews and Genet Agonafer's delicious version of kitfo, a dish of minced, raw beef tossed with warm, spiced butter. Her dorowot is jaw-droppingly good, vibrating with what must be ginger and black pepper and bishop's weed and clove but tasting of none of them, so formidably solid that the chicken, which is well-cooked, becomes just another ingredient in the sauce. Even an Ethiopian grandmother would approve. 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A. (323) 938-9304, mealsbygenet.com. Wed.-Sun., 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Beer and wine. Catering. Street parking. MC, V. Ethiopian.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

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