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Lukshon: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

It's hard to call what Sang Yoon does at Lukshon "fusion," any more than you'd use the word to describe the imaginative fiddlings of any great chef; the term gets used because the building blocks are Asian and the outcome isn't always familiar. Or, rather, it's familiar right until the knockout punch. There's lamb tartare with cumin and pickled Fresno chilis, punctuated by crispy, puffed black rice. There's Chinese eggplant, crisp and soft and sweet, topped with fennel raita and tomato sambal. The dandan noodles, electric with Sichuan peppercorns, are boldly addictive, uncompromisingly spicy, salty and fun. Vietnam, Thailand, India and China all make appearances, offering flavor guidelines and an uncompromising aesthetic of audacious, spicy, tart flavors, but Yoon takes over from there — this is his food, plain and simple. In this sleek room, with its fruity but grown-up cocktails and brashly flavored modern Asian small plates, the terminology is far less important than the vision, which is crystal clear and utterly successful. 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City; (310) 202-6808, lukshon.com. Tues.-Fri., noon-3 p.m.; Tues.-Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m. Plates $7-$28. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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Lukshon

3239 Helms Ave.
Culver City, CA 90232

310-202-6808

www.lukshon.com


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