Some restaurants that serve a grab-bag of cuisines, those where you can tell the menu reflects a lack of confidence on the part of the owners, can rightfully be side-eyed. But sometimes — it's rare, but it happens — a restaurant comes by its disparate offerings honestly, and it somehow works.
One such restaurant is in North Hollywood, under a sign that says Kabob & Mexican Food. That may not officially be its name, but it's certainly what it's known as. And indeed, it serves kabobs and Mexican food. And "American" food (burgers and fried stuff, mostly). And doughnuts.
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According to employees, the kabobs (and lavash, grilled tomatoes, hummus and rice) made up the whole of the menu under the previous owners. It was a favorite of locals, so when the current ownership took over, they didn't overhaul the menu. They just added to it. Hence the tacos, fried zucchini and turkey sandwiches. And it's sister to a doughnut shop, whence Kabob & Mexican Food gets its daily morning delivery.
Shockingly, it all works. It's not necessarily gourmet — though the beef lula kabob comes close — but it's comfort food done right. We've all sometimes wanted a tostada with a side of onion rings, or one chicken taco and a dozen doughnut holes. Honestly, this place is the answer to some people's dreams.
Apparently barbecue soon will be added to the menu, with a focus on ribs. That might end up being a bridge too far, but if anyone can pull it off, it's Kabob & Mexican Food.
6506 Laurel Canyon Blvd., North Hollywood; (818) 980-9100, kabobandbeyondnorthhollywood.com.