It's a Take-Out Window Battle: SoCal Burger Versus Backyard Burger in Chinatown

It's a Take-Out Window Battle: SoCal Burger Versus Backyard Burger in ChinatownEXPAND
Katherine Spiers

As those who pay attention to the food world know, Chinatown is changing. The neighborhood had long been known for its old-school Cantonese and Mandarin standbys, but in recent years it's taken on a whole new culinary profile. The initial interest in the neighborhood on the part of restaurateurs may have been based on the relatively cheap rent in Chinatown (there were a lot of empty storefronts), but it's now L.A.'s most interesting culinary enclave.

Burgerlords opened a window in Chinatown Plaza last year, doing SoCal-style burgers and an admirable vegan version. Plus fries. And that's it. Over in Far East Plaza, Easy's Burgers opened its own takeout window this month, offering a challenge of Chinatown burger dominance. So which one is better? 

It's a Take-Out Window Battle: SoCal Burger Versus Backyard Burger in ChinatownEXPAND
Katherine Spiers

Contender 1: Burgerlords
The sons of Oinkster owner Andre Guerrero have burgers in their blood, even if they're vegan. The classic West Coast–style cheeseburger has a thin patty and a pile of vegetables, in the style of In-N-Out — though those who've spent time in Seattle will notice that it tastes a lot like the burger at Dick's. Burgerlords gets points for being vegan-friendly, but it does need to work on consistent quality control. When it's good, it's the best. Cold burger? 86 it!
943 N. Broadway, #102, Chinatown; (323) 405-4012, burgerlords.com.

It's a Take-Out Window Battle: SoCal Burger Versus Backyard Burger in ChinatownEXPAND
Katherine Spiers

Contender 2: Easy's
Easy's is part of the Unit 120 family, that rotating pop-up that's doing pretty interesting, high-quality work. The burger is not the usual Los Angeles–style burger. It's architectural, and visually dominated by a thick slice of purple onion. The patty is peppery and medium-rare, both bold choices. It's more of a grillout burger than we usually find in quick-service restaurants. It's good. (The shakes are great, too.)
727 N. Broadway, #120, Chinatown; (213) 537-0053, easysburgers.com.

So which one is better? Hmmm ... honestly, we'll have one of each. (Seriously. It's happened.)


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