House of International Pancake
Where to find Yemenite flatbread
Dear Mr. Gold:
An Israeli friend bet me that I could not find any decent Yemenite Jewish food in L.A., in particular the local version of flatbread, known as melawach. Can you help me prove him wrong?
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Dear Mr. Pellegrin:
In short, you win. The kosher Yemenite food at Magic Carpet on Pico near La Cienega is more than decent, especially the delicious melawach — a bronzed, pizza-size fried Yemenite wheaten pancake that seems to have a thousand layers of crunch. You can do practically anything with a melawach, and Magic Carpet does, topping it with cinnamon and toasted nuts or crumbles of ground beef, a spicy confit of sautéed vegetables. Best of all is the melawach sprinkled with the spice mixture called za’atar, whose sumac-tartness and wild-thyme pungency marry perfectly with the rich denseness of the pancake. Don’t forget to get a bowl of the wonderful lentil soup. 8566 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., (310) 652-8507.