Hare tomorrow? Laurent Quenioux at his old Bistro K.
Hare tomorrow? Laurent Quenioux at his old Bistro K.
Anne Fishbein

Hoping for Ant Eggs With Opening of Laurent Quenioux's Bistro LQ, Plus Other Changes on Beverly

A lot of people were saddened with the closing awhile back of Bistro K in South Pasadena, among them L.A. Weekly restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, who in 2006 wrote, "Bistro K, to put it plainly, is a restaurant out of a daydream, with a kitchen that may rank among the few dozen best in town." Late last year, Gold found Quenioux camping out at the well-loved restaurant Vermont, originally reviewed in 1999 by Michelle Huneven for the Weekly. But the news of the closing of another highly regarded French bistro, Mimosa, on Beverly Boulevard -- no more passing of the communal jars of olives and cornichons -- brings word that Quenioux will soon be returning with his own place, Bistro LQ, in the Mimosa space.

One question that many Quenioux watchers have in mind is: Will he serve the hare again? After all, wrote Gold, "There are few chefs in Los Angeles who have Quenioux's touch with game: a soft, gloriously stinky Scottish hare stewed in something approximating the traditional foie gras-inflected blood; the most delicate roast squab with eggplant; a wonderful, substantive braised boar shank; a whole-roasted red-leg partridge with the funky, steroidal, locker-room smack of the best shot game."

And what about those ant eggs we heard so much about?

Other news from the Beverly Boulevard restaurant zone: Pastis is closing in June to be replaced by a new venture called House. And Quinn and Karen Hatfield will soon relocate their restaurant from its cozy spot on Beverly to the expansive, re-designed-many-times-over former Citrus/Alex/Meson G/Red Pearl Kitchen building on Melrose near Highland. Lucky for them, the location comes with terrific neighbors.

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