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Go's Mart: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

Do you want to drive miles across the far northwestern reaches of the San Fernando Valley only to find yourself parked in a decrepit Canoga Park strip mall searching for a "sushi" sign near a tiny door, sandwiched between a Papa John's franchise and a foot massage parlor? Yeah, you actually do. Go's Mart — not that you'd know the name until you get inside the place, whose decor resembles a nail salon more than that of one of the best sushi restaurants in town — has been occupying this improbable spot for the last 16 years. "Too long," Go himself might tell you, if you happen to get a seat at the tiny walk-ins-only sushi bar late on a rainy Saturday night. (Think Jiro Dreams of Sushi in a Repo Man setting.) But that's not nearly long enough for anyone who loves the extraordinary sushi Go sets before them — slivers of aji or baby abalone or kelp halibut — picked from the daily menu scrawled in marker on the wall. You won't get a cup of miso soup with your omakase or much small talk ("it's fish"). But you will get some of the more creative sushi in town, beautifully sourced and presented with more irony than reverence. 22330 Sherman Way, Canoga Park; (818) 704-1459. Tues.-Sat., noon-3 p.m. & 5:30-9 p.m.; Sun., noon-7:30 p.m. Sushi market price, starting at about $80 per person. Beer and wine.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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Go's Mart

22330 Sherman Way
Los Angeles, CA 91303

818-704-1459