Fusion Tacos Run Amok at L&L Hawaiian BBQ

The Spam gogi taco from L&L. It only looks nasty...or does it?
The Spam gogi taco from L&L. It only looks nasty...or does it?
Marsha Inouye

In the Hawaiian mind, it's difficult to improve upon that classic of fine dining: Spam. Sure, you could add some gravy, a couple eggs, a mystery meat patty and a dollop of macaroni salad. But Vartan Shahnazarian, manager of the L&L Hawaiian Barbecue franchise in Eagle Rock, has come up with a real Spamilicious sensation--the canned ham product smothered in kimchee sauce and wrapped in a tortilla. It's what L&L is calling their gogi tacos, or Mexi-Hawaiian fusion tacos.

Besides Spam, the tacos, which sell for $1.50 each, come in beef, chicken, Kahlua pig, short rib and katsu. You can add a red sauce made with kimchee and Sriracha hot chili sauce, or a green sauce made with tomatillos and jalapeños. "I had all the stuff I needed--everyone likes the short ribs, the chicken katsu," Shahnazarian explained. "We put a lot of meat in the taco. Two tacos is all you need."

If the tacos are successful, L&L may offer them at their other 199 franchises. If they are not, well, there's another fabulous idea gone the way of McDonald's McLean Deluxe.

L&L Hawaiian Barbecue: 4430 York Blvd., Unit #B, Los Angeles 90041, (323) 259-8888

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