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Cole's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

It's true, there are some who miss the grunge and funk of the old Cole's, the basement-level, 105-year-old restaurant that claims to have invented the French dip sandwich. The place was cleaned up when it was taken over by Cedd Moses' 213 Nightlife in 2008, and it might be the case that some of the charm left when those corners were swept out and the varnished tables made from Pacific Electric Railway doors were replaced. But the place still channels much of the noir heart of downtown L.A., with a dark red-and-brown room plastered with framed photos and a simple menu featuring French dips and tomato soup and cups of chili. The new Cole's has two real upsides: the fantastic bar upfront, which turns out some of the best classic cocktails in town, and Eric Alperin's Varnish, which is tucked away in back through an unassuming door, and which serves up some of the best all-round cocktails in the world. 118 E. Sixth St., dwntwn.; (213) 622-4090, 213nightlife.com/colesfrenchdip. Sun.-Wed., 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (bar till mid.); Thurs., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (bar till 2 a.m.); Fri. & Sat., 11 a.m.-1 a.m. (bar till 2 a.m.). Sandwiches $6.83-$10.75. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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miles
Cole's

118 E. Sixth St.
Los Angeles, CA 90014

213-622-4090

www.colesfrenchdip.com


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