Church & State: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Everybody knows Church & State. It's that loud bistro decorated with strings of Christmas lights year-round. Walter Manzke used to cook there. It rules its street of luxury lofts, and it is nearly as hard as ever to get a table on a Friday night, even when the tables spill over onto the sidewalk. There's still a pretty serious cocktail menu, pre–Prohibition-influenced stuff with a modern twist, heavy on the absinthe. The wine list, although spendy for this part of town, is rich in the biodynamic, high-acid French wines that go so well with bistro food. And if you liked Manzke's cooking, you're going to like Jeremy Berlin's cooking, too — pretty much the same cooking, actually, with the fried pig's ears, roast marrowbones, duck prosciutto and cheesy onion soup that Manzke made so popular, nicely executed, with a killer dish of herring and potatoes instead of the garlicky escargots. Some of the three-star restaurant touches may have faded away, and Berlin is probably a bit less deft than Manzke, but Church & State is still the best bistro east of La Brea. 1855 Industrial St., dwntwn. (213) 405-1434, churchandstatebistro.com. Lunch, Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, Mon.-Thurs., 6-10 p.m.; Fri., 6-11 p.m.; Sat., 5:30-11 p.m., Sun., 5:30-9 p.m. Full bar. Lot parking. All major CC. French.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

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