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Bulgarini Gelato: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Some people check the weather report before they go to the beach. I have been known to check the Italian soccer results before I drive up to Bulgarini. If AS Roma has just dropped a match to Juventus, the mood of gelato master Leo Bulgarini is likely to be as dark and bitter as his Florentine-chocolate gelato with sea salt. The gelateria is a schlep from practically everywhere in Los Angeles — much farther and you're with the rattlesnakes and jackrabbits in the San Gabriel Mountains. Henry Ford himself used to test the engines of his cars against the steep upper grade. Tucked in behind an auto parts store, Bulgarini Gelato is the most improbable ice cream store in California, almost a gelato speakeasy, where the gelati are labeled only in Italian, and — beyond the seasonal fruit sorbetti and the gelato made with the pistachios Bulgarini hand-carries back from Bronte — the best flavors include a goat-milk gelato with roasted cacao nibs that could double as a cheese course. It's petting-zoo gelato, gelato you can imagine nibbling on your sleeves. 749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena. (626) 791-6174, bulgarinigelato.com. Wed.-Thurs., Sun., noon-8 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., noon-9 p.m. Lot parking. MC, V. Gelateria.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

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Bulgarini Gelato

749 E. Altadena Drive
Altadena, CA 91001

626-791-6174

www.bulgarinigelato.com


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