The first thing you should know about Milk, Bret Thompson’s new dairy-intensive café in the Art Deco space that used to house Richard Tyler’s atelier, is that it doesn’t actually serve milk, at least not cold, frothy and unmodified in a glass, the way that some of the best ice cream places in Italy and Spain tend to do. (There are a few glass bottles of Broguieres in the takeout case, and ice-blended milk flavored with chocolate or bitter caramel.) I had been driving past the building site for months, fantasizing about Straus, Oberweis and Ronnybrook on tap, varietal tastings pitting Holstein against Jersey, and possibly a selection of exotic milks, like goat, sheep and buffalo. Instead, the clean, white café serves pastries that run the gamut from bacon-and-Cheddar scones to garish, Smurf-colored blue velvet cakes; crunchy pressed sandwiches — one of prosciutto, pecorino and red bliss potatoes was especially good — and house-made ice cream “Milkys” (delicious bonbons) at $3 a dozen. When I brought three dozen Milkys into the office the other day, they drew crowds like the Pied Piper.
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There are ice cream cones too, of course, and milky hot chocolate. But the dish that impressed me the most was a soup of puréed farmers market cauliflower flavored with black butter and currants, a soup at least one colleague found even more compelling than a toffee Milky. To each her own, I say. 7290 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 939-6455.