Best Whey Out

A platter of the right kinds of cheese, accompanied by the appropriate condiments, could probably start a party all on its own, the splendid ooze of ripe raw-milk Epoisse tangoing with a flowery El Porfaio, a creamy Fourme d’Ambert knocking heads with an aggressive, goaty crottin de Chavignol, urged on by a scrap of imported honeycomb or a dab of orange-scented carrot jam. We do not, after all, know what tricks beneficial bacteria play when we have our backs turned. But the oddly christened Ludobites, a collaboration between Breadbar, the Beverly Hills Cheese Shop and chef Ludovic Lefebvre on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday nights until mid-December, is the Hyde Lounge or Playboy Mansion of cheese, perfectly ripened A-list curds from all around the world, curated and garnished by Lefebvre, a French dude whose food has up to now been accessible only to people with the several hundred dollars it took to pay for a meal at L’Orangerie or Bastide.

By the end of the night, lubricated with bottles of good wine that you have brought yourself (Breadbar has no alcohol license), you will probably end up swapping cheese and bits of things like skirt steak or Lefebvre’s serrano-spiked “brocomole” with the people at the next table or howling over the jolt of chile in the chocolate mousse, pausing only for a moment of quiet contemplation when you realize how well your bottle of old Côte Rotie goes with the truffled Moliterno sheep cheese from Sardinia.

8718 W. Third St., L.A., (310) 205-0124. Dinner Wed.-Fri. only thru Dec. 21.


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