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Best Crispy Catfish: Ganda Siamese Cuisine

Best Crispy Catfish: Ganda Siamese Cuisine
A. Froug

The creeping, pepper-borne heat only intensifies as we pile on the sliced green chiles in the jar next to our elbows, and the only distraction is an episode of Ellen playing on the flat-screen TV, the waitress sweetly chuckling along. Our runny noses, full stomachs and aching teeth are indications that it's time to pay our check and leave, having weathered the out-of-body experience. The white-haired Thai grandma at a nearby table smiles proudly as we leave, official members of the crispy catfish club.

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