Attari: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Tehrangeles is an extensive commercial strip, two miles of kebab shops, semiformal restaurants and cafés. Yet what keeps drawing me back to Westwood is a modest Iranian sandwich shop. An Attari sandwich is close to a perfect thing: a length of toasted French bread, a layer of main ingredient and a dressing that includes fresh tomatoes, a handful of shredded lettuce and a smattering of spiced, supertart Iranian pickles. The most notorious Attari sandwich has been stuffed with soft, fragrant beef tongue, and it is sometimes possible to get one with brains, but one of the sandwiches here, the sosess, is filled with something closely resembling (if not verifiably) hot dogs, a hot dog sandwich with the taste of Tehran. Attari's leafy patio is a pleasant place, where the clientele is as well-dressed as the lunch crowd at Spago. On Fridays, ab-goosht is the closest thing there is in the restaurant world to an automatic order, an intricate lamb stew mashed into a thick, homogeneous paste with the texture of refried beans, and an expressed liquid, the soul of the dish, served separately as soup. 1388 Westwood Blvd., Westwood (entrance on Wilkins). (310) 441-5488. Tues.-Sun., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. No alcohol. Street parking. Cash only. Persian.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
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