Dear Mr. Gold:
The head honcho is coming to town, and wants to treat me to the best brunch in Los Angeles. No scrimping. What would you suggest?
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--Miss Chiffonade, Silver Lake
Dear Miss Chiffonade:
No scrimping? The usual suspects may not quite do: Huckleberry has great egg dishes and incomparable baked goods, but you'll have to stand in line and share your table, although that doesn't seem to stop the Governor, who is apparently a regular. BLD is very good, but it tends to be a little too buzzy in the morning, especially if you've greeted the dawn. We've all been to Campanile too many times for the place to seem quite as special as it used to, although the cooking is certainly first-rate. The Texas Chainsaw décor of the Saddlepeak Lodge may be a bit much before your first cup of coffee. And as wonderful as the patio at Cora's may be on a warm, sunny day, I wouldn't want to be there when it rains. Have I mentioned the chilaquiles at La Casita Mexicana? I always mention the chilaquiles at La Casita Mexicana, but certain honchos are averse to even the idea of the drive to Bell.
So the answer may be: Jar. It's expensive enough to feel like a treat, the room is comfortable and gently lit; the roast beef hash, lobster Benedict with char siu and pea tendrils, and French toast with fried bananas are splendid; and the bartender is not averse to whipping up a Ramos gin fizz. It's a Sunday brunch even a honcho would like.