Ask Mr. Gold
Question: The Kings Head? You write about chips, and the best place you can come up with is Ye Olde fugging Kings fugging Head? I like the pub all right, but if I had wanted to find out about the Kings fugging Head I could have consulted, I dont know, every other restaurant critic in the history of L.A. Youre disappointing me, Mr. Gold.
John, Eagle Rock
Answer: I like the Kings Head! But if you venture into the arcade across from Vromans in Pasadena, the arched one from the 1920s that houses various art galleries, the Yucatecan restaurant El Portal and a dusty bookstore that seems to specialize in unread old sets of Kipling, you will find AJs Fish & Chips in the corner of the promenade that shrinks the farthest from the sun. AJs cook and waitresses are Thai, and the chips, French fries, are just dreadful, formerly frozen shoestrings that could use a little more time in the oil. The tartar sauce seems made by somebody whos never tasted tartar sauce. The strongest drink on the menu is black Thai iced tea. There may not be a dartboard within miles. But the fish itself, northern cod breaded and fried to a golden crunch you may associate more with Southeast Asia than with the Sceptered Isle, is nothing short of superb. And at AJs you can also get a plate of ground chicken sautéed with green chiles and Thai basil that blows the roof off any steak-and-kidney pie youd care to name. If thats what you have in mind. 696 E. Colorado Blvd., No. 11, Pasadena, (626) 795-3793. Got a burning culinary question? Ask Mr. Gold by e-mailing firstname.lastname@example.org.
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