Ask Mr. Gold
Question: A Somali friend of mine is jonesin’ for some good goat. I think she might be open to various forms (even birria!). Could you suggest two or three excellent spots? Thanks.
—Titus Levi, Los Angeles
Answer: I was just thinking about goat. Which isn’t unusual — I often spend quite a bit of time thinking about goat, usually around dinner time. Goat: The other, other, other white meat. If you’re in the mood for a lot of goat, practically goat by the yard, it might be difficult to do better than a long, goaty lunch among the mounted animal heads at the original Birriera Chalio on Calle Primero, where the waitresses will bring plate after plate of the restaurant’s signature Zacatecas-style birria — chewy riblets and soft chunks of shoulder and muscley knots of leg meat — until you practically have to beg them to stop. The customers at Natriliart may include a large contingent of Rastafarians whose strict vegetarian diet might give even a PETA member pause, but the spicy goat curry is first rate. And there’s always the sweet, crispy grilled goat ribs at Phong Dinh in Rosemead. Birriera Chalio on Calle Primero, 3580 E. First St., (323) 268-5349; Natriliart, 3426 W. Washington Blvd., (323) 732-8865; Phong Dinh, 2643 N. San Gabriel Blvd., Rosemead, (626) 307-8868.
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