Ask Mr. Gold
QUESTION: A few months ago, you mentioned a source for great merguez sausage. But what I’ve been looking for is boudin noir, the black stuff, the real ooze. Because lately, I’ve been in the mood for a little type-O negative, if you know what I mean.
—Vlad, Sherman Oaks
ANSWER: In Los Angeles, you’re never far from a hit of grade-A hemoglobin. Argentine and Colombian restaurants, such as the excellent La Fonda Antioquena, usually have grilled morcilla, a Spanish-style blood sausage plumped out with rice. German delis have blutwurst and the charmingly named blood tongue (try Schreiner’s). Korean greasy spoons (such as Kobawoo) often serve an appetizer of the blood sausage soon dae, partnered with boiled pig’s stomach. And there were almost certainly cubes of pig’s blood hidden in that mysterious stew cart the last time you ate a dim sum breakfast, say at Empress Pavilion. Irish Imports carries the Irish breakfast mainstay known as black pudding. But I assume that by boudin noir, you are referring to the gently spiced French blood sausage — and also that a table at Le Dome is as far beyond your reach as it is beyond mine. You could call for a reservation at A.O.C. and hope that there will be boudin noir on the menu. Or you could buy the excellent blood sausage at Made in France and cook it yourself. Don’t forget the sautéed apples. La Fonda Antioquena, 4903 Melrose Ave., (323) 957-5164. Schreiner’s, 3417 Ocean View Blvd., (818) 244-4735. Kobawoo, 698 S. Vermont Ave., (213) 389-7300. Empress Pavilion, 988 N. Hill St., (213) 617-9898. Irish Imports, 738 N. Vine St., (323) 467-6714. A.O.C., 8022 W. Third St., (323) 653-6359. Made in France, 10701 Vanowen St., (818) 985-9800.
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