Ask Mr. Gold
Q: We became addicted to spicy red merguez sausages while we were in France last summer and cant find them here at home. Do you know where to find a good Algerian butcher?
Regards, Judy Kameon and Erik Otsea
A: Great merguez isnt that easy to find in Los Angeles. There are a lot of Middle Eastern restaurants, of course, but they tend to serve Armenian-Lebanese cooking which features a spicy sausage called sujouk instead of merguez Iranian cooking or straight-on kebabs. But if you dont mind grilling them yourself, the guys at Chowhound.com are gaga over the house-made merguez at Hadar Orthodox Kosher Meat. And Hadars merguez really is good juicy breakfast-size links with a strong lambiness and a lashing of pungent spice, not hot-hot, but persistent; the flavor bounces around in your mouth in the same way that certain pop tunes bounce around in your head. We all might secretly prefer Led Zep, but to be the ABBA of Moroccan sausage isnt bad. Hadar Orthodox Kosher Meat, 440 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 655-0250.
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