Ask Mr. Gold
Q: A friend told me about a joint that serves grilled split chickens with a red marinade on top of French fries, on the north side of the street toward downtown. Not Pollo a la Brasa. Any idea what and where it is?
A: My first thought was the local outlet of the Central American chicken chain Pollo Campero, in the La Curacao department store downtown — it has hourlong lines at all times of day and night. But the chain, as ubiquitous as KFC in Guatemala and El Salvador, really specializes in more of a garlicky, peppery fried chicken, sort of Popeye’s-plus in style, although there is roast chicken too.
But then I figured you were probably thinking of Dino’s Burgers, a Greek-run hamburger pit, where the grilled chicken does indeed come glazed with a spicy, treacly red sauce that is guaranteed to stick to the French fries and stay under your fingernails for a week. I prefer the chicken at nearby Papa Cristo’s, but some people can’t get enough of Dino’s cherry-red bird. Pollo Campero, 1605 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, (213) 251-8594. Dino’s Burgers, 2575 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 380-3554.
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