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While the contributions of South America to world culture may include the magical realist novel, Che's groovy beret and Lambada: The Forbidden Dance, the continent's role in world cuisine has gone largely unremarked. Without South America, there wou...
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New York has pushcart dogs and the garlic knobelwurst at Katz's deli. Chicago has Vienna franks. Rochester has its white-hots, Cincinnati its chili-sluiced coneys. Sheboygan is famous for grilled brats. Santa Monica . . . Santa Monica is the birthpla...
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The concept of the single-item restaurant is well known in Los Angeles: Lawry's for prime rib, Tommy's for hamburgers, Philippe's for French dip. If you want crab, you might head to the Crab Cooker; if tofu, to Tofu Cabin. There is precedent for thi...
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The first West African cooks to land in the Caribbean more than 400 years ago did not precisely apply for their jobs. But since then African flavors have been as dominant in American cooking as African-derived rhythms in jazz. From the Carolina rice...
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Behold Sushi Bar Golf, at the historic intersection of Third and Vermont, a Japanese restaurant at the heart of a neighborhood that can't decide whether it is Filipino, Salvadoran or Korean. Although Sushi Bar Golf is in plain view, it seems a little...
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Vim must have been one of the first dozen Thai restaurants in Los Angeles, a bright, fragrant storefront on a strip of South Vermont that anchored one of the city's original Thai neighborhoods. Composer Carl Stone named one of his earliest MIDI opuse...
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Julienne may be the last restaurant of its type in Los Angeles County, a patio caf in the heart of San Marino's small downtown that rolls the experiences of La Coupole, Mayberry R.F.D. and the Bullocks Wilshire tearoom all into one. Julienne is a wh...
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When the Southwestern thing was hot a few years ago, we tasted foie-gras tacos with honey-lime sauce and radicchio tacos stuffed with crab; blue tacos and red tacos; Jamaican tacos and Pilgrim tacos; tacos filled with parts of the pig we'd rather no...
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There is sushi. And then there is Spam musubi. Spam musubi is a brick of vinegared sushi rice, the size of a chalkboard eraser but with 20 times the heft, burrito-wrapped in a sheet of dark-green nori seaweed and stuffed with a pink, glistening s...
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Japan, of course, is home to the most refined food culture in the world, to fish fried so delicately that it appears less greasy than it did before it was immersed in oil, to sake that costs more per ounce than pure gold, to kaiseki meals so exquisi...
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For most of the last decade, Gagnier's of New Orleans was a gleaming white-tablecloth creole restaurant in the Baldwin Hills/Crenshaw Plaza shopping center on Crenshaw, casual enough to stop into after a morning of shopping at Macy's, though still on...
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Quest for fire? Grate expectations? Sear bliss? Old King Coal? Stripes? When protein meets the bonfire, cuisine starts to happen - cuisine, or an auto-da-fe. Still, we wish they all could be California . . . you know.
By Brazil No. 2
While By Br...
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There is something inherently comforting about a Provence-style bistro. Bordered by Italy to the east and the Mediterranean to the south, Provence embodies an easygoing spontaneity. Food goes directly from garden to kitchen, and then, with a minimum ...
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If you have taken your American Express card out for a walk lately, you have probably noticed that Los Angeles has become a city of supper clubs, dark, atmospheric - and smokeless - rooms featuring identical blends of '80s grill food and '50s lounge...
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Coconut-enriched seafood chowders, from new-wave Florida soups to the fiery mocquecas of northern Brazil, are a staple of the warm-water Americas. But Honduran sopa de caracol is perhaps the greatest seafood soup of all. The national dish of Honduras...
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Bahooka
This Polynesian restaurant is the kind of place you'd expect to find near a scruffy tropical seaport, all rusted nautical gear, stolen street signs and scarred dark wood. Lifeboats hang out back, and a mysterious board engraved "Joyce Kilm...
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A French chef is not considered accomplished until he has mastered the classical repertoire from bouillon to ballotines; Italian chefs pride themselves on their ability to prepare 500 pasta sauces on demand. Some Angeleno chefs work from menus that a...
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Al-Watan
Like any serious Pakistani restaurant, Al-Watan ostensibly specializes in the complicated offal dishes that make up the heart of Muslim Pakistani soul food: masala, here a ragout of chopped goat's brains cooked in a bright-red spice paste; ...
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Raisin Bran has its place in the world; blueberry pancakes are fine. We have personally fried enough eggs over easy to swamp Dodger Stadium in slightly runny yolk. But on the other side of the world - and in other parts of town - breakfast is more l...
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I love bread. I'm drawn to it the way a love-starved child is drawn to anyone remotely kind. I love its soft, fragrant interior, the random structure of crumbs, the color and shalelike texture of a good crust. If there is no bread in the house, to m...
Bucato Review: Evan Funke's Helms Bakery Restaurant Triumphs
