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  Trapper's Delight - Big meat in the north woods of San Gabriel

  If you grew up in West Los Angeles, you probably have primal yearnings for Lawry's roast beef that you don't fully understand. If like me you hail from the south side, you may long for Poor Richard's, a '60s wonderland of Shirley Temples and chuggin...

  by Jonathan Gold on July 30, 1998

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  Warm-Weather Edibles - A guide to our advertisers

  TANDOORI NIGHTS8165 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood(213) 848-8626 For six years, Tandoori Nights has satisfied the curry cravings of its loyal WeHo patrons. House favorites include tender lamb tandoori ($9.95), marinated in spiced yogurt and co...

  by Staff on July 23, 1998

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  Warm-Weather Edibles - A guide to our advertisers

  HOUSE OF BLUES 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (323) 848-5100 With five bars on the restaurant level, live music nightly, and a dazzling collection of Southern folk art, House of Blues is a party palace extraordinaire. Its signature dish is a sp...

  by Staff on July 23, 1998

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  Warm-Weather Edibles - A guide to our advertisers

  Edited by Lovell Estell IIIWritten by Siran Babayan, Nicole Campos, Sara T. Dunn, Matt Grebow, Aaron Jacobs, Dan Laidman, Olivia Weber A'FLOAT SUSHI87 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena(626) 792-9779 Imagine a tranquil Japanese stream rippling through...

  by Staff on July 23, 1998

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  Sampling L.A.'s newest restaurants

  BLUEBERRY510 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica(310) 394-7766 If you're not careful, you'll leave this little bakery-cafe with blue lips, a blue tongue and the nagging conviction that you're morphing into a blueberry. The tiny muffins are blueberry,...

  by Linda Burum & Michelle Huneven on July 23, 1998

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  Sheltering Sky

  Aristotle said that men are hotter than women. Men are so hot, he said, that sometimes they burn off their hair. Want proof? Just look at the dearth of bald women. (Not surprisingly, in the likenesses of Aristotle I've seen he's bald as an egg.) I p...

  by Michelle Huneven on July 23, 1998

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  Taste Globally, Picnic Locally

  Smoke drifts from the mouths of several tandoors set up in Artesia Park for the annual Diwali Mela. This Hindu New Year Fair is one giant schmooze fest for the Indian community. Parents gossip, kids race around, people wander from booth to booth, wh...

  by Linda Burum on July 23, 1998

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  Fish Out of Water - Seafood on the San Pedro waterfront

  The San Pedro Fish Market and Restaurant may be the most raucous place in Los Angeles on a Saturday afternoon - a crumbling wharf in the Ports O' Call complex of San Pedro swarming with children, besieged by gulls, vibrating with the sound of mariach...

  by Jonathan Gold on July 23, 1998

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  A Real Drago - Great Sicilian food in West Hollywood

  L'Arancino, Celestino Drago's fourth restaurant, is now open for business in the space formerly occupied by Jackson's on Beverly Boulevard in West Hollywood. The walls gleam with fresh white paint; chairs look smart in new linen slipcovers. And on t...

  by Michelle Huneven on July 16, 1998

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  Hong Kong Chow

  Empress Pavilion-- A recent meal at Empress Pavilion included shiitake mushrooms braised with snow-pea leaves - a musky combination that somehow breathed summer - and Chinese water spinach sauteed with blindingly pungent fermented soy. You will also...

  by Jonathan Gold on July 16, 1998

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  Ping-Pong Balls and Thai Tacos - A different kind of dessert in Hollywood

  Everybody likes mint-leaf chicken. In some parts of town, pad Thai noodles are more popular than hot dogs. But to people not actually raised in Bangkok, Thai desserts may be as specialized a taste as oboe recitals or light bondage, gelatinous masses ...

  by Jonathan Gold on July 9, 1998

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  Soft-Shoe Sushi - Tap with your tuna in Studio City

  Sushi on Tap is a stylish sushi bar in a Studio City mini-mall, a tap-dance-themed place with bright posters on the walls, tap documentaries flickering silently on the video screens that dot the room, and saccharine versions of jazz standards floatin...

  by Jonathan Gold on July 2, 1998

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  Persian Cats - Pickled garlic, hot bread, gallons of rice and kebab's your uncle. Did somebody say fatwa?

  Canary Canary is an Iranian sandwich shop on Westwood's Iranian strip, a house of kebabs in the most kebab-intensive neighborhood in California. (As W.C. Fields once said of the garlic-packing town of Gilroy, you could marinate a steak just by han...

  by Jonathan Gold on July 2, 1998

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  A Perfect Day for Banana Pizza - Brazilian food - and soccer - in Culver City

  The Brazilian restaurant Zabumba is as soccer-mad as any three British pubs, with a welter of video screens tuned to the games, World Cup schedules handed out with the check, and at least one waitress who wears a uniform consisting of short-shorts an...

  by Jonathan Gold on June 25, 1998

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  The Best of Counter Intelligence - The Other Continental Cuisine

  While the contributions of South America to world culture may include the magical realist novel, Che's groovy beret and Lambada: The Forbidden Dance, the continent's role in world cuisine has gone largely unremarked. Without South America, there wou...

  by Jonathan Gold on June 25, 1998

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  Sticking It Where The Sun Shines - Santa Monica's gift to the world

  New York has pushcart dogs and the garlic knobelwurst at Katz's deli. Chicago has Vienna franks. Rochester has its white-hots, Cincinnati its chili-sluiced coneys. Sheboygan is famous for grilled brats. Santa Monica . . . Santa Monica is the birthpla...

  by Jonathan Gold on June 18, 1998

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  Only the Lonely

  The concept of the single-item restaurant is well known in Los Angeles: Lawry's for prime rib, Tommy's for hamburgers, Philippe's for French dip. If you want crab, you might head to the Crab Cooker; if tofu, to Tofu Cabin. There is precedent for thi...

  by Jonathan Gold on June 18, 1998

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  Out of Africa

  The first West African cooks to land in the Caribbean more than 400 years ago did not precisely apply for their jobs. But since then African flavors have been as dominant in American cooking as African-derived rhythms in jazz. From the Carolina rice...

  by Jonathan Gold on June 4, 1998

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  A Round of Sushi - Raw fish with a golf theme

  Behold Sushi Bar Golf, at the historic intersection of Third and Vermont, a Japanese restaurant at the heart of a neighborhood that can't decide whether it is Filipino, Salvadoran or Korean. Although Sushi Bar Golf is in plain view, it seems a little...

  by Jonathan Gold on May 14, 1998

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  Old-School Thais - A Hollywood restaurant with roots on Vermont

  Vim must have been one of the first dozen Thai restaurants in Los Angeles, a bright, fragrant storefront on a strip of South Vermont that anchored one of the city's original Thai neighborhoods. Composer Carl Stone named one of his earliest MIDI opuse...

  by Jonathan Gold on May 7, 1998