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• Article

  Authentic Caf? - Tacos like Mom used to make

  Photo by Anne FishbeinAuthenticity comes in many flavors in Los Angeles, from the goat stew at places that seem plucked straight out of the Guadalajara suburbs to French dip sandwiches assembled the same way since 1903, from the quivering cubes of du...

  by Jonathan Gold on December 31, 1998

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  Raw Power - Regular-guy sushi in Little Tokyo

  Photo by Anne FishbeinThere are, of course, many sushi experiences available in the greater Los Angeles area: sushi served by reggae singers and sushi served by tap dancers, sushi bars that specialize in firecracker rolls and sushi bars that refuse t...

  by Jonathan Gold on December 24, 1998

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  Dear Diary - A week in the life of food

  Photo by Anne Fishbein Here's what I did last week. SUNDAY: Everybody but me, it appears, adores the crisp-skinned roast chicken at the Cuban restaurant Versailles, loves the soupy black beans, the avocado salad, the mounds of bright-yellow ...

  by Jonathan Gold on December 17, 1998

• Article

  American Pie

  Apple Pan My family have been Apple Pan regulars at least since Lew Alcindor played freshman ball. The top and bottom buns of an Apple Pan burger are both crisped and slightly oily, crunchy at the edges, working toward a near-complete softness at ...

  by Jonathan Gold on December 10, 1998

• Article

  Seeing Red - When your lunch absolutely, positively has to match the color of your tie. . .

  Ashoka the Great Ashoka is where to come for tandoori dishes: skinless chicken legs and fish kebabs and minced-lamb sausages marinated in yogurt and spices, flash-cooked in an ultrahot clay oven and served sizzling in a bed of onions on a heated s...

  by Jonathan Gold on December 3, 1998

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  Bright Lights, Pig City - Chinese barbecue in Alhambra

  The vast Cantonese banquet halls process thousands of customers a day. Gleaming Hong Kong-style cafs are as numerous as the red beans in a Chinese milk shake. Intimate seafood restaurants steam tankersful of live prawns each week. Still, the basic u...

  by Jonathan Gold on November 19, 1998

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  Frank Discussion - A natural history of the chilidog

  `If you grew up eating hot dogs in the swinging San Fernando Valley '70s, your family probably had allegiances to the Hot Dog Show or Flooky's or the Wiener Factory, which were as inarguable, as inevitable, as the question of Orthodox, Conservative ...

  by Jonathan Gold on November 12, 1998

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  Heavy Rotation - The big veal keeps on turnin'

  Green Field Churrascaria What to do at the Brazilian steak house Green Field is grab a plate and wander through the long buffet station, picking up fresh hearts of palm, marinated chickpeas, fresh asparagus, nubs of garlic-fried chicken. Then come...

  by Jonathan Gold on November 12, 1998

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  North of Old Town - South of the border

  Old Town Pasadena may be the most gentrified district in America, a sort of mega-mall sprinkled like fairy dust through hundred-year-old office blocks, polished to a shine. In Old Town - which for some reason has been renamed Old Pasadena - you are ...

  by Jonathan Gold on November 5, 1998

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  All the Little Live Things - When merely fresh is no longer enough . .

  Bahooka This Polynesian restaurant is the kind of place you'd expect to find near a scruffy tropical seaport, all rusted nautical gear, stolen street signs and scarred dark wood. Lifeboats hang out back, and a mysterious board engraved "Joyce Kilm...

  by Jonathan Gold on November 5, 1998

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  Hot Stuff - Incendiary Sichuan in Pasadena

  The hottest Thai curry in Los Angeles? It's hard to say. The fieriest Mexican dish? I couldn't tell you, although a dish of grilled shrimp with sauteed habanero peppers I had at a defunct Whittier restaurant a few years ago was intense enough to coax...

  by Jonathan Gold on October 29, 1998

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  The Pie's the Limit - This is what happens when the world goes to pizzas

  Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each of them touted as the best in the Southland, one of them actually has to be the best. And I'm pretty sure that the Casa Bianca pizza pie is the one. Especially the sausage pizza: sp...

  by Jonathan Gold on October 29, 1998

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  Out and In - Where to go after the Music Center

  Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each of them touted as the best in the Southland, one of them actually has to be the best. And I'm pretty sure that the Casa Bianca pizza pie is the one. Especially the sausage pizza, sp...

  by Jonathan Gold on October 22, 1998

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  In and Out - Where to go before the Music Center

  Little Joe's If you grew up in the Southland, you've probably known the taste of Little Joe's ravioli - soft meat puffs in red marinara sauce - since you were small. If you grew up almost anywhere else, you've tasted something like Little Joe's ra...

  by Jonathan Gold on October 15, 1998

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  Man Bites Prawn - A Koreatown seafood adventure

  The first cold night of fall, I went to the Living Fish Center, a small, superbly named Koreatown restaurant in whose window a brilliant neon trout burns in permanent midleap. Inside, a school of scarlet fish stare dumbly out from their dim tank, an...

  by Jonathan Gold on October 15, 1998

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  Mixmasters - Around here, we call it street-level multiculturalism.

  Bahooka In the '70s and '80s, countless Kelbo's and Don the Beachcombers closed, the Torches was razed for condos, and the Luau on Rodeo Drive, where three generations of Beverly Hills High School students purchased their first illicit drink, was ...

  by Jonathan Gold on October 8, 1998

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  Birria Forever! And Ever...and Ever... - Here's where to get your goat.

  Baldomero There may be more than birria and weekend menudo here, but it would be hard to tell by looking at the plates on the tables around you, at the signboards above the steam table or at the menu (which doesn't exist). And where some restauran...

  by Jonathan Gold on September 24, 1998

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  Liquid Diet - In the beginning, there was beer...

  Cole's P.E. Buffet When you trip down out of the bright sunlight into the dim warren of Cole's, you stumble into another era, with real Tiffany lamps, sawdust on the floors, and a couple of pickle-nosed guys at the bar who look like they haven't b...

  by Jonathan Gold on September 17, 1998

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  Hawaiian Aye - Bruddah's island soul

  If you're looking for the latest combination of diced papaya and unpronounceable Big Island fish, you might visit the Maui Beach Cafe. If you want to see what kind of Chinese dishes Japanese chefs might cook up for Californians in a restaurant owned ...

  by Jonathan Gold on September 10, 1998

• Article

  Profiles in Curry - I am curious - yellow.

  All India Cafe The conceit here is dishes from each of the regions of India - tandoori meats from the north and masala dosa from the south, salads and Bombay-style uttapam - filtered through the soft-focus lens of the All India kitchen and washed wi...

  by Jonathan Gold on September 10, 1998