Akasha: Chicken Tikka Wings To Die For

The chicken tikka wings at Akasha in Culver City.
The chicken tikka wings at Akasha in Culver City.
Robert Takata

Akasha in Culver City is known as a bastion of organic, market-driven, California cuisine. Hearty but healthful fare. So I was surprised and excited to discover Akasha makes such great chicken wings, the pinnacle of greasy, all-American snack food.

People will rave about Akasha's gluten-free onion rings with their rice-flour coating. No, I prefer their chicken tikka wings, crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, betraying barely a hint of grease and coated in a layer of chat masala that's as coarse and tender as a kitten's tongue.

These wings taste fresh. They're nothing like the defrosted nubs coated in generic orange sauce you get at most sports bars. At Akasha, you get the whole wing, including what I call the "chicken toe," my favorite part of the wing. When it's roasted or fried, it becomes a delicious crispy point of skin and bone, offering one of the most satisfying crunches in the world. A dab into the nectarine chutney makes Akasha's wings even more delicious.

If I initially found the dish incongruous, all doubts were erased with one bite. On second thought, the chicken tikka wings fit perfectly into Akasha's wheelhouse: comfort food with a novel twist.

Akasha: 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City; (310) 845-1700.

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