On Thursday the Weekly will publish our Restaurant Issue: 99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die. For the days leading up to the issue, we'll be posting a few of Jonathan Gold's items on the blog. Check back each day as we count down.
Sherry Yard's Kaiserschmarrn:
Everybody who hasn't been to Spago since the 1980s knows exactly what to get there -- pizza, chopped Chino Ranch vegetables, and pasta with goat cheese and broccoli. They're the dishes that made California cuisine famous, that fed Hollywood and made Wolfgang Puck America's first celebrity chef. Except that Spago hasn't really served those dishes in a while: Puck's and Lee Hefter's palates lean more toward the Austrian palette than toward the pizza party, and the one dish that has remained on the menu for the last dozen years has been the beet layer cake with goat cheese and pumpkinseed oil. Which leaves longtime Spago pastry chef Sherry Yard's Kaiserschmarrn, an ethereal, fluffy pancake served with strawberries. What does Tony Curtis have in common with Emperor Franz Josef I? Do you even have to ask?
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Spago: 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 385-0880.