MORE

24: Coconut Bavarois at Red Medicine

coconut bavarois at Red Medicine
coconut bavarois at Red Medicine

Celebrating this year's Best of L.A. issue -- now out in print and online -- we're counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.

24: Coconut Bavarois at Red Medicine.

Red Medicine is a complicated place. After a year existing in the shadow of it's infamous critic controversy -- in which the owners tweeted pictures of then L.A. Times critic S. Irene Virbila -- the restaurant finally began to develop into one of the hippest places to eat along Beverly Hills' restaurant row.

Chef Jordan Kahn plays the tortured artist/chef card well, working for weeks without a day off and keeping his kitchen staff to a bare, but overworked, minimum. Many of the dishes at Red Medicine are exquisite to look at, but Kahn's expertise shines through most with his desserts -- considering he made a name for himself as the pastry chef at the short-lived Michael Mina spot XIV, this might not come as a surprise.

Red Medicine's signature dessert is probably the coconut bavarois, which might either arrive in a clear eight-inch tall glass or a wide-mouthed white bowl, depending on the night. On the bottom is a rich custard made of coconut milk, then a small quenelle of coffee ice cream and drizzle of condensed milk, then a spoonful of crushed, freeze-dried chicory. Finishing things off are some slippery Thai basil seeds, a dot of basil pureƩ (or occasionally leaves) and some crumbly shards of what Kahn calls peanut croquant.

In the simplest description, Kahn has condensed the flavors of a Vietnamese iced coffee in a single dessert. Just sweet enough, and with a twinge of bitterness from the coffee and chicory. If the restaurant ever sold the croquant on it's own, which tastes remarkably similar to the stuff you find inside a Nutter Butter cookie, then it would probably be stuffed into every holiday gift bag in town. It is very rare that a dessert can alter the course of an entire meal, making you forget, say, a dry piece of lamb shoulder. Kahn's bavarois will make you do more than forget; it will have you questioning why you didn't order dessert first.


Check out the rest of our 100 of our favorite dishes. Suggestion? Write us a comment.

100: Lukshon's Dan Dan Noodles

99: Cemita de Milanesa at Cemitas Poblanos Elviritas #1

98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil

97: Tsukemen at Tsujita L.A.

96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche

95: Duck Shawarma at Momed

94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa

93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen

92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord

91: Baco Mercat's Bazole

90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame

89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence

88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market

87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane

86: Galbi Jjim at Soban

85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post

84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun

83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co

82: Sooo Cali Dog at Dog Haus

81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza

80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant

79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan

78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat

77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho

76: Pork Chop at Salt's Cure

75: Porcetto at Sotto

74: The Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense

73: Wood-Roasted English Peas at Tar & Roses

72: Persian Mulberries at Weiser Family Farms

71: Hunan-Style Preserved Pork with Tofu at Hunan Chilli King

70: Brisket Banh Mi at Gjelina Take Away

69: Yukhwe Bibimbap at Oo-Kook Korean BBQ

68: Lamb Pie at Beijing Pie House

67: Son of a Gun's Uni and Burrata

66: Pastrami Reuben at Art's Delicatessen

65: Beef Koobideh at Kabab Mahaleh

64: The Whipper Burger at Hawkins House of Burgers

63: Slippery Shrimp at Yang Chow

62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill

61: Going Dutch Panini at Bread Lounge

60: Huckleberry's Green Eggs & Ham

59: Pickled Watermelon Salad at L&E Oyster Bar

58: Spaghettini with Abalone, Pickled Cod Roe and Truffles at n/naka

57: Brown Brown Bread Ice Cream at Scoops Westside

56: Smothered Chicken at R and R Soul Food

55: Duck Fried Rice at Jar

54: Taco Sampler at Guisados

53: The Sycamore Kitchen's Double BLT-A Sandwich

52: House Wonton Soup at China Cafe

51: Almond Croissant at Proof Bakery

50: The Southern Fry at Plan Check Kitchen + Bar

49: The Dodger Dog at Dodger Stadium

48: Papaya Salad at Krua Siri

47: Lucky Baldwins' Traditional Full English Breakfast

46: Edomae Tendon Bowl at Hannosuke

45: The Pescado Zarandeado at Coni'Seafood

44: Hot Wings at Beer Belly

43: Raw Kale Salad at Elf Cafe

42: Steak Tartare Tacos at MessHall

41: Banh Mi at Buu Dien

40: Sicilian Slice at Pizzanista

39: Grilled Baby Goat T-bone at Mozza's Scuola di Pizza Salumi Bar

38: Papri Chaat at Jay Bharat

37: The Island Combo at TiGeorges' Chicken

36: Tacos Al Pastor at Tacos Leo

35: "Sandwich" at Roma Italian Deli

34: Bossam at Kobawoo House

33: Cauliflower T-Bone at Superba Snack Bar

32: Pupusa Revuelta at Atlacatl

31: Bonjiri Yakitori at Kokekokko

30: Crispy Pork with Morning Glory at Crispy Pork Gang & Grill

29: Sashimi Special at Sushi Gen

28: Tamal de Mole Negro at Guelaguetza

27: The Hickoryburger at Apple Pan

26: Lobster Thermidor at Musso & Frank's

25: Poached Pear Coupe at Tavern


Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook.

Use Current Location

Related Location

miles
Red Medicine

8400 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90211

323-651-5500

www.redmedicinela.com


Sponsor Content