10: Ceviche Mixto at Mo-Chica

Ceviche Mixto at Mo-Chica
Ceviche Mixto at Mo-Chica
Jo Stougaard/MyLastBite

10: Ceviche Mixto at Mo-Chica

When Ricardo Zarate moved his inaugural restaurant Mo-Chica last year, from a tiny food court space in South L.A. to a hip industrial space near downtown (from 37th and Grand to 7th and Grand, technically) it was a cross-town move worthy of Weezy Jefferson.

But for all the changes -- a swank bar program populated by tart pisco sours; walls full of colorful graffiti murals and a bumping hip-hop soundtrack -- Zarate still stuck to his guns in the kitchen. On the menu were many of the same dishes which had brought him to prominence at Mercado La Paloma, none more so than his succulent Peruvian ceviche.

No matter how many raw fish dishes you've had in this sushi-obsessed town, Zarate's ceviche mixto will surely surprise the first time you have it: squares of snow white halibut, fat pink prawns, pale scallops and curls of squid sweeping upward like Frank Gehry curves. Embraced with a marinade of lime juice, crushed aji amarillo chile, and raw onion, the flavors practically leap off the plate, tempered by a soft wedge of sweet potato and some oversized chewy corn kernels.

It's pure Peruvian power executed with Japanese precision, a field of cooking where Zarate's restaurants have come to dominate nationally in the past couple years. Order a bowl, groove to some beat-heavy samba, and sip on your potent glass of mezcal -- whether uptown, downtown, or elsewhere, this is a ceviche for all occasions.

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98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil

97: Tsukemen at Tsujita L.A.

96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche

95: Duck Shawarma at Momed

94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa

93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen

92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord

91: Baco Mercat's Bazole

90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame

89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence

88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market

87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane

86: Galbi Jjim at Soban

85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post

84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun

83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co

82: Sooo Cali Dog at Dog Haus

81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza

80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant

79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan

78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat

77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho

76: Pork Chop at Salt's Cure

75: Porcetto at Sotto

74: The Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense

73: Wood-Roasted English Peas at Tar & Roses

72: Persian Mulberries at Weiser Family Farms

71: Hunan-Style Preserved Pork with Tofu at Hunan Chilli King

70: Brisket Banh Mi at Gjelina Take Away

69: Yukhwe Bibimbap at Oo-Kook Korean BBQ

68: Lamb Pie at Beijing Pie House

67: Son of a Gun's Uni and Burrata

66: Pastrami Reuben at Art's Delicatessen

65: Beef Koobideh at Kabab Mahaleh

64: The Whipper Burger at Hawkins House of Burgers

63: Slippery Shrimp at Yang Chow

62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill

61: Going Dutch Panini at Bread Lounge

60: Huckleberry's Green Eggs & Ham

59: Pickled Watermelon Salad at L&E Oyster Bar

58: Spaghettini with Abalone, Pickled Cod Roe and Truffles at n/naka

57: Brown Brown Bread Ice Cream at Scoops Westside

56: Smothered Chicken at R and R Soul Food

55: Duck Fried Rice at Jar

54: Taco Sampler at Guisados

53: The Sycamore Kitchen's Double BLT-A Sandwich

52: House Wonton Soup at China Cafe

51: Almond Croissant at Proof Bakery

50: The Southern Fry at Plan Check Kitchen + Bar

49: The Dodger Dog at Dodger Stadium

48: Papaya Salad at Krua Siri

47: Lucky Baldwins' Traditional Full English Breakfast

46: Edomae Tendon Bowl at Hannosuke

45: The Pescado Zarandeado at Coni'Seafood

44: Hot Wings at Beer Belly

43: Raw Kale Salad at Elf Cafe

42: Steak Tartare Tacos at MessHall

41: Banh Mi at Buu Dien

40: Sicilian Slice at Pizzanista

39: Grilled Baby Goat T-bone at Mozza's Scuola di Pizza Salumi Bar

38: Papri Chaat at Jay Bharat

37: The Island Combo at TiGeorges' Chicken

36: Tacos Al Pastor at Tacos Leo

35: "Sandwich" at Roma Italian Deli

34: Bossam at Kobawoo House

33: Cauliflower T-Bone at Superba Snack Bar

32: Pupusa Revuelta at Atlacatl

31: Bonjiri Yakitori at Kokekokko

30: Crispy Pork with Morning Glory at Crispy Pork Gang & Grill

29: Sashimi Special at Sushi Gen

28: Tamal de Mole Negro at Guelaguetza

27: The Hickoryburger at Apple Pan

26: Lobster Thermidor at Musso & Frank's

25: Poached Pear Coupe at Tavern

24: Coconut Bavarois at Red Medicine

23: The Tasting Kitchen's Pork Rillettes

22: Beef Ribs at Bludso's BBQ

21: Anson Mills Grits & Eggs at Milo & Olive

20: Lamb Dip at Philippe the Original

19: Salsa de Chorizo Con Cesina at Gish Bac

18: Matsuhisa's Yellowtail Scallion Donburi

17: Green Curry Mussels at Jitlada

16: Creamy Pumpkin Soup at BierBeisl

15: Fish Taco from Ricky's Fish Tacos

14: Spago's Baked Jonagold Apple

13: Rivera's Tortillas Florales

12: Kalbi at Soot Bull Jeep

11: Sugar and Spice Beignets at Hatfield's


Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook. Reach the author at gsnyder@laweekly.com or follow him on Twitter at @G_Sny

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