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In COUNTER INTELLIGENCE, Mac's Headroom: We have seen the future of macaroni and cheese, and its name is Mac & Cheeza. By JONATHAN GOLD. In ASK MR. GOLD, Fish for More: When Mrs. Paul’s just doesn’t cut it.
The challenge of finding high quality, fairly priced food in Beverly Hills is eased somewhat thanks to Momed (233 S. Beverly Dr.), opening this week. Owner Alex Sarkissian explains that Momed plants "one foot in tradition, one foot in contemporary cooking," with the majority of the food offerings based on Greek, Turkish, and Lebanese influences, along with touches of Syria, Egypt, Israel, Tunisia and Morocco. Momed's logistical set-up follows an informal counter service and marketplace model, but with sophisticated tweaks in order to accommodate a deli case, a large grill, and a wood-burning oven. The space designed by JohnstonMarklee (which created both Hungry Cat locations) features a "style [that] is contemporary, but with looking to the east for influences and inspirations," Sarkissian explains. This approach accounts for artfully arranged exposed ductwork juxtaposed with mosaic tiles. Monen also features a custom Synesso Hydra, which will ensure that Beverly Hills residents have ready access to properly prepared Intelligentsia coffee.

Downtown L.A. will witness some cheesy stuff this week. This isn't a comment on the social scene, just a literal fact. Mac & Cheeza (223 W. 8th St.), where owners Larkin Mackey and Joshua McBride (Larkin's) combine carbs and dairy in many arrangements, is finally settling into its schedule, delivery service, and an official grand opening at its Chapman Building storefront on Thursday, April 22 at 5:00 p.m. (Jonathan Gold's review appears in this week's paper.) The Grilled Cheese Invitational takes place on Saturday, April 24 from noon until 6:00 p.m. at LA Center Studios. Fortunately, it sounds like things will run more smoothly this year. So be there and eat square.

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A couple of Northern California's shining stars of the food world will make Los Angeles area appearances in the coming weeks. This Saturday, April 24 from 2-5:00 p.m., icon Alice Waters signs copies of her latest book, In the Green Kitchen: Techniques to Learn By Heart, at eclectic chic boutique Lost and Found on Yucca Avenue in Hollywood.

Things get interesting in the kitchen at Animal (435 N. Fairfax Ave.) during the week of May 17 through 23, when former Napa-based Ubuntu chef and master manipulator of edible plants, Jeremy Fox, collaborates with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo on vegetarian tasting menus. The irony of Animal's shifted agenda will be lost on no one, of course, which is part of the fun. Read more details about "The Vegetable Dinners" at Squid Ink, and what Dotolo looks forward to.

Also along the lines of unexpected contrasts: as part of its Hatchi guest chef series, BreadBar (10250 Santa Monica Blvd.) in Century City hosts "Deli 2010" on Thursday, April 29. Saul Cooperstein, Managing Director of Business Development of SBE, will attempt to show that he can make pastrami as well as he can help make Lindsay Lohan's next favorite lounge. The menu also includes dishes with some down home foods in quotes. "Chicken noodles"? Sounds like Cooperstein's been talking to his associate Jose Andres, and might get all molecular on us. The deli-themed cocktail menu may be the bigger attraction, although it's doubtful anyone will attempt a gefilte fish juice-based cocktail. Also coming up at BreadBar: Walter Maznke steps behind the ovens and stoves for the June slot, and the Hatchi Mix project is in the works featuring visiting mixologists, starting with the Tasting Kitchen's Devon Espinosa on Thursday, May 6.

Mother's Day is fast approaching on Sunday, May, 9, so here are a couple suggestions to get you thinking about what to plan:

Palate Food + Wine's (933 S. Brand Ave.) Mother's Day brunch will be a three-course, cliche-free menu that costs $35 per person, and $25 for children under 12. Seasonal dishes such as ricotta gnocchi with green garlic, squash blossoms, tomato and olive tapenade; crispy soft shell crab with spring succotash, oyster aioli, and guanciale; braised lamb belly with artichoke gratin, pickled ramps, and fava bean pesto; and vanilla-roasted pineapple with toasted coconut and rum-raisin ice cream are part of what won't be Your Ordinary Mother's Day Meal.

The American Tea Room (401 N. Canon Dr.) in Beverly Hills teams up with Valerie Confections for what will be the first of its regular weekend High Tea events. Valerie provides the scones, tea sandwiches, jams, petits fours, chocolates and other treats, while beverages come from the American Tea Room's stock of 200+ loose-leaf teas ($50 per person). Reserve via email tea@americantearoom.com or phone (310) 271-7922.

With most of April behind us already, lilac, peas, much-improved strawberries, artichokes, and other spring produce items are fresh on the brain and ripe on the tongue. But the ocean's bounty offers its own share of seasonal plant riches. Learn more at Squid Ink about one such sea vegetable, red ogo, available from Carlsbad Aqua Farm at select farmers' markets.
Starting Saturday, La Guera Tamalera will set up shop at Cafecito Organico's brick-and-mortar location at 534 N. Hoover. Tamale maker Deborah Stern will arrive around 9:00 a.m., and stay until she sells out. (Customers can also order ahead, pre-pay and pick up on Saturday by calling 213-880-0277.) Because Stern and Cafecito Organico founder Angel Orozco have overlapping food and community interests, and have both spent time at Mama's Hot Tamales, Stern says she "always wanted to incorporate my tamales" with Cafecito's products. Guera Tamalera goods are also available during Downtown ArtWalk on Thursday, May 13 from 4-10:00 p.m. But there is one event that trumps all others. "I'm an avid fan" of the Derby Dolls roller derby, Stern tells us. So on Saturday nights when there's a bout going on -- next up: Swarm v. Fight Crew on May 15 -- expect to find Stern selling freshly steamed Guera tamales (including vegan sesame kale and shitake spinach varieties) outside the banked roller derby track.

Tavern (11648 San Vicente Blvd.) in Brentwood features jazz starting on Monday, April, 26 from 7-10:00 p.m. Live performances will become a standing Tavern happening on the last Monday of the month.

-Jessica Ritz
Get Los Angeles restaurant reviews and news at www.laweekly.com/restaurants.

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