Dark wood, deep booths and Sinatra; Manhattans and "dago red"; spaghetti and meatballs — your instincts tell you South Jersey, but chef Brandon Boudet grew up in New Orleans, and Little Dom's seems patterned after the neighborhood joints in that city, grown-up places where the local preferences for anise, artichokes and fried seafood poke out where you least expect them. If an appetizer of fried shrimp and artichoke wedges isn't a New Orleans classic, it should be. I admit a grudging admiration for Boudet's unconventional oyster po' boy: fried, freshly shucked mollusks piled onto crunchy toasted focaccia with tomatoes, a crumpled sheet of fried speck and a peppery rémoulade. If the little deli next door is open, duck in for a minute. The chocolate sugar sprinkle cookies are... More >>>