Whatever the current style in Los Angeles restaurants ends up being named, from the small-plate thing to the fixation on local, organic produce; the off-center proteins to the international palette of flavors; and the resistance to even modest customer requests, it may have its origins in the cheeseburger conspiracies of Father's Office tsar Sang Yoon but it runs right through the kitchens of Animal, where Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook refined both the concept of fried pig's ears and the... More >>>
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