If you were to poll foodistas about L.A. kitchens of the 1980s, you would be likely to come up with a lot of affection for City Restaurant, where Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken explored the idea of L.A. multiculturalism better than any restaurant has before or since, strands of Korean, Indian and Thai cooking twisting from their neighborhoods up to the La Brea dining room. In Street, a hypercool restaurant on Hollywood's southern fringe, Feniger revisits some of the same transglobal ideas but with a direct, accessible twist: Street is a virtual museum of world street food, snacks and savories from every part of Asia — Singaporean kaya toast; Korean-style mung bean pancakes studded with bits of anise-braised pork belly; hollow, potato-stuffed Indian ping-pong balls called paani puri; even a delicious version of the do-it-yourself Thai bundles of roasted coconut, bird chiles, peanuts, tamarind jam and minced lime, among other things, but wrapped in bits of collard instead of the traditional la lot leaf — the beauty is in the mix. Half the menu is vegan-friendly, although you probably wouldn't notice that fact unless it was important to you, and at least as much attention seems to have been paid to the... More >>>