It may be a stretch to consider Waterloo & City, a pool-shooting, darts-playing, ale-swilling, Ramones-blasting bar shoehorned into a rundown coffee shop, to be much more than a glorified bar. The place is ostensibly a gastropub, whatever that has come to mean, and there is indeed a Sunday roast; a Scotch egg; sticky toffee pudding; and a maître d' who is prepared to discuss the nuances of your glass of stout until the roosters begin to crow. Nobody but an Englishman could have come up with something like an Indian butter chicken pizza. But Brendan Collins, the Englishman in question, is a chef deeply in love with meat, especially the charcuterie he makes himself — loaves of sweetbreads bound in gelatin with pig's trotters; rabbit with pistachios; the occasional terrine of eel and foie gras — it's a virtuosic display, even if you don't go on to the burgers made with 30-day-aged meat or the crisp pig shank confit,... More >>>