Sqirl has everything I want, on one plate, over and over again. Like what? Like a bowl of Kokuho Rose brown rice with sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, black radish, French sheep feta and a silken poached egg, amped up subtly at the edges with hot sauce. The lemon is so assertive as to make me pucker, the feta generously creamy, the hearty rice intensely nutty and comforting. The combination has the effect of a song lyric or a line of poetry that's so resonant, you think to yourself: I should have written that. I should have come up with this dish. I should be making this for my family for breakfast — if only I had the time/ talent/ imagination. --Besha Rodell

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