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Ricky Piña launched his namesake Ricky's Fish Tacos, a small stand located in a Sunset Junction parking lot, in 2009. Unable to find anything in Los Angeles that measured up to the Ensenada-style fish tacos of his youth, Piña, a former florist, outfitted an old filing cabinet with a wide-brimmed fryer and began churning out crispy, Baja-style fish tacos. While his equipment has been upgraded since (and his Twitter followers quadrupled), the tacos remain the stuff of legend: delicate fillets of battered fish, some chopped cabbage, pico de gallo and a warm flour tortilla. As for the creamy white sauce and fiery red salsa, Piña, ever the purist, prefers that you drizzle them on yourself. The unconventional makeshift setting, its affable talented proprietor, a focus on a single food item that originated just across the U.S.-Mexico border, the offbeat hours and other constraints lend the place a certain mystique -- and make for an only-in-L.A. experience.

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